Exactly after one month of the attacks, I drop by the Taj for a walk down the memory lane. While the staff members put up a brave face, and smile as widely as physically possible, their eyes are blank and haunted. And the stench of death and fear is unmistakable.
There aren’t too many visitors (this is prime time eve), the otherwise packed lobby is frighteningly sparse. Students from the National School of Blind sing Christmas carols with great energy (see pic), but there are only a handful of listeners. I have never in my life had the glitzy lobby to myself. The Christmas tree decorated mainly white (the classy Taj touch) looks forlorn and loveless.
While the lady at the desk reports 60% occupancy, sadly, I don’t see the figure remotely close. Clearly, she’s been briefed to get the spirits up. And if the lady is right about the number, the guests are safely ordering in, no one wants to hang out at the refurbished restaurants and bars anymore.
We devour chai and sandwiches at the old-fav Shamiana. Again, we have the 24-hour joint to ourselves, there are only a few other guests (see the pic of a nearly vacant Shamiana). Grenades were lobbed exactly where we are seated. While the tea is as delicious as always, can’t seem to get the image of destruction out of my mind. It’s going to take the Taj a lot more time than we thought to reach normalcy.
Equally, the shops are deserted. The Nalanda bookshop (seldom have I dropped by and not ran into a friend/acquaintance) has turned into my personal library.
The Starboard bar, thankfully, has a few patrons. I quietly slip into the smoking lounge (the Taj tower pic has been shot from there), and notice two young girls puffing away and guzzling down wine. They don’t seem too upset, they don’t suss me out for a suspicious back-pack, and seem lost in their own conversation. They are the only brave souls inside the hotel, wonder if it’s bravery or some great wine.
Damn, even the loo has been exclusively reserved for me.
And I don’t even want to recount the lonely walk to the old wing, by the pool. This is what I felt walking by the Nagapattinum beach days after the tsunami.
Outside the hotel, I urge the Sardarji durban to allow us to walk by the heritage structure (totally closed to the public). After a moment’s hesitation, he kindly grants permission. So we solemnly walk by the ravaged, raped, desolate heritage wing, devoid of humanity, even the sea seems unusually quiet, as if in mourning. (And to think this is the stretch which finds common ground with taporis, tourists, peanut sellers, romancing couples, prostitutes, pimps and elderly walkers.) The room lights are kept on (to keep the faith intact), but the fear is palpable. And the exit into the streets of the bustling Colaba brings much relief. A joy to suddenly run into humanity.
No, 26/11 won’t go away too soon. The scars are just too deep to heal. Maybe they never will. Bombay will never be the same again. The terrorists are winning this war.
11 comments:
Very interesting and sad. It was the same at Ambassador Delhi on christmas eve. a sad little christmas tree.
we need to do something Anil ... this wont change unless we change the politics of india. take a look at the kashmir elections. after a phenomenal 62% turnover we have a hung assembly and the same horse trading!
If we don't have the right leaders we are sunk.
dont know how u gathered the corage to go there so soon.i know i wont go there at least for the next 5 years...no kidding.
You have touched a chord.
Yes Anil, 26/11 won’t go away too soon. The scars are indeed too deep to heal. But they will definitely recover. Bombay will never be the same again. But we will overcome and never let terrorists win. A defeatist negative posture is not the answer. A positive attitude is the first step to healing.
Thanks Anil for sharing the pictures...felt eerie reading how you felt venturing through a space which has witnessed such gruesom killing....You say 'a positive attitude is the first step to healing' but this war is leading to war again...leaders are talking the language o war...this incident is getting politicised. Lets keep our fingers crossed.Yes, the Taj has got a face lift...but people who escaped and others who lost their lives. What about them??? Rita Som
Dear Anilji, the event of the recent past prove one thing - that the river of life must flow on whatever the price we pay. We pay for our own selfish negligence in supporting an inefficient, careless governance from people who only want their own pockets full of the loot which tax payers pay month after month. I hope for our country's sake that honest and truthful people come out to take over the nation and give us back our dreams for its future. I hope this happens in my lifetime. Season's greetings and a happy, healthy, peaceful and safe 2009 for you and yours. Vimla Patil.
Beautifully and poignantly written, as you always do.
Freddy
"really sad
we need to fight back by not letting the spirit get weak"
adip
"Just read your article, and was sad while reading it, but the solution to terrorism and terrorists isn't so simple, though I wish it were so.
As long as there are hungry people, as long as there is poverty, people will be easily bribe-able and be manufactured into terrorists. As long as we are sleeping and ignore pressing world issues, as long as we believe that we are separate and not one world, we will be pitted against each-other. As long as we have faith in our politicians to do something and not in ourselves, they will pit us against each-other.
When politicians are not accountable to the people they represent, there will be an abuse of power by them, e.g.- Israel, Pakistan and US, who make war on whom so ever they please and occupy whichever territory they please!
As long as we are in smallness, believing that I am Jew, and this is mine, I am an Mahrashtrian and this is mine, and nobody else ought to be here, how can we solve bigger and bigger issues?"
it takes people time to get over the death of loved ones
as for terrorist acts, they will continue ...but we need to have courage , times have changed
"read ur article Anil. U're right. The fear won't go away for a long long time. But aren't we known for conquering our fears, jutting our chin out and walking with our heads held high?"
jyoti
Dear Anil,
I went to Frangipani soon after the attacks - and although it was not in the 'direct line of fire' on those days, attendance was poor at 8p.m. We were one of 4 tables occupied. By the time we left - around 9.30pm, some more people walked in. But throughout, the staff was caring, attentive, ever so hospitable - doing whatever is in their power to welcome people back again. The food was great, and I would say the whole 'experience' almost like they were telling all 'we're sorry this has happened, but we'd like to make up'! Definitely worth returning for. Definitely no 'fear' should come in anyone's way!
My fifth attempt at going to Cafe Leopold on the other hand, was abortive - long waits, full tables, business as usual - people waiting outside to get in! Mostly foreigners - if they are not afraid, why should any of us be?
Happy New Year!
Swati
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